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I recently bought a Viceroy 280 synchro which was fitted with a 3-phase motor and pump. Since I don't have 3-phase power and didn't want to run a 3-phase converter and lose the stock buttons I decided to convert the machine to single phase.

Before you start, make sure you take photos and notes of all the wiring for triggering the contactors, because you need this to rebuild them and it's no mean feat for a novice. I took many photos and still struggled.

Firstly I found that the pull-in coils in the contactors would not work on 240V. After searching for 240V coils then researching the cost of new contactors I set-about seeing if I could convert my coils to work the contactors on 240V. I figured if I could remove a good number of turns from the coils they should pull about the same current on the lower voltage and hopefully work the contactors ok. I tried this, and found it worked. The pictures below show exactly what I did.
Attachments:
Stock winding
Stock winding
coilmod3.JPG (43.54 KiB) Viewed 28490 times
Split the contacotor to remove the coil
Split the contacotor to remove the coil
coilmod2.JPG (39.26 KiB) Viewed 28490 times
Remove the contactor
Remove the contactor
coilmod1.jpg (42.4 KiB) Viewed 28490 times
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Post by Pete. »

Now I un-wound the contactor. I didn't count the turns I removed but there must have been a thousand or more. I then reinforced the tail for soldering by making half a dozen loops and twisting them together.
Attachments:
Make a hook tool to wind the end-loops together
Make a hook tool to wind the end-loops together
coilmod6.JPG (33.05 KiB) Viewed 28489 times
Wind the end round a suitable card - this is about 5" wide
Wind the end round a suitable card - this is about 5" wide
coilmod5.JPG (37.69 KiB) Viewed 28489 times
Coil is now un-wound to the size shown. Takes some time.
Coil is now un-wound to the size shown. Takes some time.
coilmod4.JPG (48.93 KiB) Viewed 28489 times
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Post by Pete. »

I twisted the wire, turned it around the coil a couple of turns and scraped the insulation off it for soldering:
Attachments:
Soldered winding - ready for taping & re-assembly.
Soldered winding - ready for taping & re-assembly.
coilmod9.JPG (32.83 KiB) Viewed 28488 times
wind it round and then scrape the insulation off with a stanley blade
wind it round and then scrape the insulation off with a stanley blade
coilmod8.JPG (31.59 KiB) Viewed 28488 times
Twist the wire up to give it some strength. If you don't do this sooner or lateer it will break in use.
Twist the wire up to give it some strength. If you don't do this sooner or lateer it will break in use.
coilmod7.JPG (35.01 KiB) Viewed 28488 times
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Post by Pete. »

Now all is left is to re-wind the tape over the coil that you initially removed and re-build the contactor. You should do all three contactors if you want to use all the stock buttons and use a 240V coolant pump too.

The wiring also has to be changed. You cannot use the overload feature on the stop button any more because the single-phase motor will make it trip right away as it draws more current. What I did was to put the supply in the other side and run the motor directly out of the contactor and just use the stop button as, well a stop button.

My single phase motor has a start winding with a capacitor on it and a centrifugal switch, and a run winding wired in parallel with the start winding. In order to reverse the motor I needed to simply reverse the connections of the run winding. To do this I made the fllowing diagram. Note that not all single phase motors will reverse using this method and you should do some research if you plan to do this yourself.
Attachments:
Wiring for reversing single-phase motor.
Wiring for reversing single-phase motor.
reverser.jpg (74.62 KiB) Viewed 28487 times
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Post by Pete. »

Just to help anyone here is how I wired the contactors for single-phase.
Attachments:
Incoming power goes to contactor C3, not the stop switch/overload. Two live contacts are linked.
Incoming power goes to contactor C3, not the stop switch/overload. Two live contacts are linked.
spcontacts01.jpg (64.67 KiB) Viewed 28485 times
Red/black on the right are pump supply. Brown/blue is run winding grey and far-right black are start winding.
Red/black on the right are pump supply. Brown/blue is run winding grey and far-right black are start winding.
spcontacts02.jpg (61.84 KiB) Viewed 28485 times
Red wire at front here from centre contact is the link for the safety switches. If you are using the switches cut this out and wire the safetys in line.
Red wire at front here from centre contact is the link for the safety switches. If you are using the switches cut this out and wire the safetys in line.
spcontacts03.jpg (72.21 KiB) Viewed 28485 times
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Hi very good post!!!! but i just want to know if it works ??? as am doing my viceroy one right now. :doh:
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Hi Graham.

Yes it works perfectly, including the coolant pump. I do have some spare 240V contactors I'd sell if you or anyone else needs them. I got them in case the conversion was less than satisfactory and have no use for them now.

Pete.
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HI mate thats good to know! I may want one off you as i snapped the wire but i think i have got the end but how much we talking??? can you tell me how i upload a photo? as i have something for you to look at! thanks
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HI mate will i need to unwind some off this as well?
Attachments:
130620091031.jpg
130620091031.jpg (195.11 KiB) Viewed 28082 times
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This is the cover off my lathe
Attachments:
130620091035.jpg
130620091035.jpg (148.01 KiB) Viewed 28082 times
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The set up of my lathe
Attachments:
130620091034.jpg
130620091034.jpg (196.68 KiB) Viewed 28082 times
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any one know whats this for the little black thing with two wires and a tube coming out of it???
Attachments:
130620091032.jpg
130620091032.jpg (94.38 KiB) Viewed 28082 times
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On my lathe that transformer only powered the light. I ripped mine out and use an angle-poise lamp instead.

Your switching system is different to mine - my buttons push directly on the contactors and then they latch themselves down. Looks like you have a drum switch in your machine. How many contactors in it?
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just the one contacted on it. my lathe's a tds11gb!! metric and yes the switch is a drum for f and r
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Does the green button press directly on the contactor top?
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Hi look at the photo see the black line the green button hits that!
Attachments:
spcontacts01.jpg
spcontacts01.jpg (83.78 KiB) Viewed 28077 times
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has your lathe got this on? its some sort of air switch?
Attachments:
130620091036.jpg
130620091036.jpg (82.06 KiB) Viewed 28077 times
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Yes, I had no idea what it's purpose was and it wasn't conneced so I binned that too :)
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HI i know what its for now. its like a dead mans kick switch. right i have everything put back now and it works but when i turn the drum switch left of right it make's contacted what have i got messed up as i think you turn the switch then press the button and it come's on ?
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Aah right, my safety kick-bar has been wired with an electrical contact.
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