Viceroy sharpedge problems

[Colinley]

Hi guys I'm new to the forum and I have a viceroy sharpedge and have a few problems with it the first one being the wheel seems to sit too high on the machine instead of it sitting in the recess it sits about 2 inches above so all the oil flys all over the place instead of going into the well and recirculated back around I will add another message with other problems once I have sorted this one any help will be much appreciated

Thanks colin

[Andy B]

Hi Colin & welcome to the forum.
I guess the first obvious question is: is it fitted with the correct wheel?
I believe the wheel details are somewhere in this area.
The assembly drawing for the spindle may be also - I remember there was a question about the main spindle bearing a while back for which I eventually found the bearing part details.

A photo or two might help to answer your query.

Andy

Edit - all the info mentioned above is here. Did you find that already?

[Colinley]

Thanks for the reply Andy I did find some drawings on here one showing the bearings and how they are driven mine has a pulley with the motor at the bottom so I belive it's pre 1973 I will take some pictures today and try to upload them

Thanks again

Colin

[Colinley]

Photos of viceroy sharpedge

[Andy B]

A picture is worth a thousand words!
Comparing the photo of your bearing mount to the drawing, it looks to me as though someone has replaced the bearing mount with a home-made one at some point.
With that great big block on top, it is no wonder the wheel is sitting so high.
I can't quite imagine how the original could get so damaged that it would need replacing like that ...

If you want to try to build one back to original dimensions, I might be able to find the detail drawings (if they are not already in the scanned files).

Andy

[Colinley]

Thanks that would be great I might try to start stripping it down and work out what is original and what is not no you know of anywhere I can get spare parts from

[Colinley]

I'm having a few problems stripping it so far I have took the wheel off and dropped the gearbox but a bit stuck from there the part at the bottom of the shaft had a grub screw in it I have removed that but all it does is spin the brass looking part above it also had a grub screw in it and that seems to be on a thread but only winds up and down a couple of mm the big disc on top just spins and the aluminium plate is held on by four bolts that I can't unscrew and even if I could they would not come out all the way because the disc on top needs to come off first

Any idea how I remove the part at the bottom because I feel as though if I remove that then all the rest would follow

[Colinley]

Photos

[Andy B]

My first guess would be that the grubscrews have made burrs on the shaft (if no flat was machined onto the shaft) and those burrs are stopping the parts from sliding off.
Do you have a gear puller?
If you don't, maybe make 2 pairs of wedges if you have some hardwood offcuts and use a couple of G clamps to pull them in?
I assume you're having to work upside-down in the cabinet, so you can't see much or get both arms in easily?

Andy

[Colinley]

Thanks andy yes I'm working upside down but was thinking about just removing the whole top so it would be easier to work on I don't have a gear puller but I was looking at them last night on ebay so I think I will order one and go from there I'll post updates as and when things happen one other quick question mine didn't come with the bowl that goes undr the gearbox can you tell me what that is for is it needed

Thanks colin

[Colinley]

This is the part I am struggling to get off

[DavidB]

I would check that you haven't got a grub screw locking a grub screw in that coupling, ie have you removed one grub but there is still one in there. I ran into that the first time on a Bridgeport mill and only realised it when I had pulled the pulley off with a puller and saw the damage to the shaft and had a look and saw the remaining grub screw. No big deal as no real damage done but a learning experience.

My experience with a Sharpedge is with one that got converted to a flat lap for grinding glass. From the information here it was an early one with a Radicon gearbox but no flexible coupling, it lacked the intermediate plate on the underside of the upper tray casting and instead the Radicon gearbox was fitted to the underside of the upper tray directly with 4 bolts and the wheel shaft fitted directly to the gearbox shaft with a couple of grub screws. It had been badly maintained and not cleaned so the lap silicon carbide grit had gotten into the oilite bearing and then the gearbox, the bearings were trashed but the gears OK and replacement bearings sorted it along with a new upper boss and oilite and a new shaft. Interesting to see the details mentioned here as I used some 32mm chromed ground bar I had for the shaft and a matching oilite and that is very near the 1.25" mentioned in the drawings

Regarding a lower tank that is likely the oil tank which the upper tray will drain into. IIRC the motor shaft should have an eccentric on it which drives a lever type fuel pump as used on cars of old to feed oil back up to the stone, I think the vertical drain tube was partly shown in one of your earlier photos.

[Colinley]

Thanks David I don't think there is another grub screw in there because it seems to spin quite free like it is on its own bearing buy it won't pull off but I will check tomorrow when I get home from work I'm just hoping after getting it all apart that I can figure out what parts are needed and hope I can get hold of them

[Colinley]

Just had a look and there is definitely no grumpy screw holding it on so I think next step is to get a puller and try that

[Nick Brown]

Hello all could you advise please.

I am a DT Technician in a school and have just started at a new school. I was delighted to discover they had a Viceroy Sharpedge as I have a lot of chisels and plane blades to sharpen and keep sharpe.

The machine I have switches on and wheel spins okay. However honing oil does not pump though. It has been standing awhile and initial clean of oil tank and accessible part of diaphragm pump revealed a lot of solid gunge.

How do I repair?

How much of a strip down do I need to do?

What spares might I need.

I would be very grateful for any advice.

Thanks

[Andy B]

Hi,
Welcome to the forum.
Can you describe a bit more about what you've already tried regarding the honing oil supply? e.g. are the pipes all intact and clear?

Edit;
(Are you sure it's a diaphragm pump? Being gear driven and with a viscous oil, I would expect it to be a gear pump.)
OK - so popular opinion is that it is a diaphragm pump.
Suggestion was made previously that the pump was used on car engines of the period, although searches on the original AC Delco part number (7990443) have drawn a blank.

Edit:
(If the pipes are clear, I would remove the pump and see if it is possible to get any fluid through it by manually rotating it, inlet uppermost to gravity feed it. It could just need flushing through.
Have you got (access to) an ultrasonic cleaner?)

There was a report on another forum of the cam drive having completely worn out. The pump is probably pretty basic so I would just strip it until you find the problem.

Some pictures would be welcome so we can see what you are seeing...
Andy

[Nick Brown]

Thanks Andy B for your insight.

I think it will require a full strip down as access is restricted. All pipes are clear and I replaced them all apart from the drainage pipe.

The storage tank had a half inch of solid gunged in the bottom now cleared and the accessible part of the pump was solid with gunge.

If I get stuck I'll post some pictures.

Many thanks for getting back to me

[DavidB]

You can often get rebuild kits for the AC Delco pumps at tractor supply places or classic car parts suppliers but these days a new pump may not cost much more.

[Andy B]

Came across this drawing (whilst looking for something else) with the different Delco pump numbers on it as used over the years:

SH_PUMP.pdf

(230.15 KiB) Downloaded 1556 times

Andy