Caveat Emptor TDS 1/1GB

[rotorhead]

Hello folks,

My son bought a Viceroy TDS 1/1GB, through the Homeworkshop.org website(to which we hold no fault with), from someone down in South Wales.

I told my son to strip it, because no doubt it would have a bit of wear and tear, - not half, I honestly believe that the misuse was discovered, the way we have, and it was sold on, - to my son, I would not be able to live with myself to do the same thing.

The main reason for my griping is the headstock assembly, everything else one could put down to wear and tear, but if I can get some images up for you to look at, you'll see what I mean, but I'll describe it, the underside of the headstock casting is cracked across a corner, the narrow bar that acts as a locator with 2 dowels in it, is cracked across both dowel holes, the main spindle has been hammered at the gear end to try to remove it, then filed down - yes filed, where the rear most inner collar with 2 grubscrews sits, there are long scoring marks on the spindle, where removal had been tried without undoing the grubscrews, then filed down........

I don't know what else we might find wrong with the spindle, but we're off to a professional welder with the headstock, to be properly cast iron welded.........

I'll post some more details later,
Best regards, Bernard Wright(rotorhead)

[Denford Admin]

Is that a left hand thread on the end of the shaft ? - I bet that caused them some frustration as well

[rotorhead]

Yes,Yes and bloody yes...........

rotorhead

[rotorhead]

Hello again,

I think I'll end up making a new spindle for my son, along with the end gear, that's also damaged, I'm also making an imperial cross feed screw and nut for him,
when we get the headstock casting back it'll want truing up, so there's aplenty to do.......

I made up this tool quickly to reduce the accumulated damage, to pull the end gear off, I had assorted lengths of threaded rod and spacers, here's one I made earlier.......

Bernard(rotorhead)

Resized down to 800x600, I apologise for not considering smaller screen sizes.........

[Pete.]

Looks like someone's been hammering on that gear to try to drift it off

I like your fittng for the hydraulic puller - very tidy.

I do believe the imperial cross-feed screw is 1/2" x 5tpi LH
modified square section.

Just a small criticism Bernard - your pictures are so large it's hard to see detail and everyone's text is rolling off the screen.
If you re-sized them down it would be a lot more comfortable for all. If you use windows, you can use thier handy
free re-sizer tool with no more effort than right-clicking the image, and choosing re-size:

https://download.microsoft.com/download/ ... ySetup.exe

[Denford Admin]

I agree, it makes it hard to read the forum even on a widescreen 1680x1050 monitor.

I've just resized them with the same image resizer powertoy, but it's a bit of a pain with this latest forum update as the filenames are obfuscated...
(eg, instead of photo15.jpg the file is stored as 1810_dc55e7e331e7360348ef14995adfc60)

[angel-tech]

That's appalling, i'm based in south wales and if i can be of any help to you let me know.

[rotorhead]

Sorry folks,

I'd already resized but uploaded the wrong ones, I've now uploaded the right sizes 800x600, I didn't mean to cause any problems, as I'm new to posting on here, and didn't quite know the procedure for the pictures.

I'm using an acme thread for the feedscrew, as we've bought a 1/2" x 10tpi acme tap, to make things easier, we'll probably do the topslide screw the same, as the nut had been bashed, making it more difficult as I didn't want to start making different taps as well.

I'll post a few more pics when I've sorted some bits out for the Viceroy, I'm also rebuilding a Clarkson Mk1 T&C grinder, which I'd like to finish first, to enable more acurate tool angle grinding for the acme screw thread cutter tip.

Bernard

[Pete.]

Hi Bernard.

I'm sure you already realize the top-slide is a RH thread whereas the cross-slide thread is LH. Good luck with your rebuild!

Pete.

[rotorhead]

Glad you brought that up, it will remind me to number the dial the other way, my son will just have get used to screwing the topslide in reverse....hehe

Bernard

[Pete.]

It might be against your religion Bernard but you could always make an acetal nut by forming it on the screw. It really does work quite well, you end up with a strong nut with low wear and virtually no backlash. Only takes an hour or so start to finish.

[rotorhead]

Hi Pete,

I wouldn't mind being enlightened regarding this acetal business, is it like moulding in epoxy resin or such?

Bernard

[Pete.]

Here you go Bernard, Read here:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3034

[rotorhead]

Hi Pete,

I thank you for that, it's brilliantly simple, providing the feed screw is of full constant form, don't get me wrong, I'm not in anyway nitpicking, just alluding to the maybe.

Our cross feedscrew is worn in two places, it looks as though it's been stretched, but the topslide screw is a good constant section, that's a prime candidate, I would think the drop distance is short enough to be strong enough.

Thanks again Pete,

Bernard