My new viceroy lathe

[paulmo101]

Hi

thanks for the reply
Will have alook when in the garage (workshop) Tomorrow

Paul

[paulmo101]

Hi Dazz

Thanks for the info.

I presume the bolt ABOVE the sight glass is the filler?

Do you know the approx capacity and I presume you fill to the top of the sight glass?

Cheers

Paul

[dazz]

Hi
Yes an halfway up the sight glass.
I recommend you take off the front cover and clean out the gearbox.
The gearbox has an opening at the back that allows dust to enter. You will probably find a lot of sediment.

Also, once in a while, run the gearbox at full rpm to splash oil across all moving parts.

[Hawk]

Just to keep you updated on my lathe, i have drilled and tapped an M4 hole for a grub screw on the gear selector arm and that appears to be helping me be able to keep the gears in selection. I have also filled the gearbox back up with 32 grade hydraulic fluid as recommended....by someone...somewhere. Was it the previous page? i'm not sure....anyway! Work continues to get the motor aligned properly.

I have taken the motor out of the lathe and started to remove the mounting plate that lies on a hinge.
My problem now is just removing that plate. I can see that the "hinge" is just a 3/8ths bar that is a very tight fit into the mounting holes on the plate. I have managed to get it out of one of the mounting holes by using a drift and a rubber mallet, only to realise that it wont go all the way through if i make it go further. SO! i'm going to use a hole saw to cut an inch hole on the "wall" on the inside of the cabinet parallel to where the hinge is so that i can make a larger drift touch the opposite side...then smack it through or just hit the 3/8ths bar all the way through. After i've managed to get the motor mount plate out i can then drill the new holes for where the motor now needs to rest to keep the belt in line.

Whilst doing this work, my neighbour was helping and noticed that the top pulleys were at a slight angle. I corrected this by moving the nuts on one side of the pulleys to bring it into line with the motor pulleys. I have now just thought that, doing that angle adjustment may have slackened off the belt that drives the spindle. So there's another thing i need to check.

Another thing I would like to ask about is, how much backlash do you guys get if you move the chuck forward and back by hand? I can hear it and it is more than i expected as i thought the drive would have been done by gears? is it done by the same type of gears that is used when selecting the speeds in the gearbox? i.e. extremely large interlocking flat teeth. Hope this doesn't all sound random as i think it does.

thanks.

[dazz]

Hello
Rather than cut holes in your cabinet, just unbolt the entire motor mount. There is a bolt in each corner that fastens the mount to the cabinet.

There will always be backlash in any gear train. So long as the teeth are undamaged, you should be OK.

[LesT]

Hi,
I found a couple of A3 drawings which show the mounting plate arrangement. I hope they help you, one is from the wood lathe arrangements,but the part numbers appear to be common i.e. "SP***", possibly standard part ?
I only have an A4 scanner so I have scanned the relevant bits.
By the way, it looks like you may have to tip your Lathe over to get the plate out !.
Good Luck ! its very heavy.
Les.T.

[Pete.]

As Dazz said, backlash is required. There could be a good amount of it and it wouldn't affect the operation of the lathe since all the forces are acting in the same direction.

[Hawk]

Thanks all!
Thanks for the pdf's, but unfortunately the bottom of the cabinet is welded in place. So no easy way for me to do it, which is a pain. I shall keep you informed of how i get it done.

[dazz]

Hi
The motor with both cast iron mounts should come out. There is a bolt in each corner of the lower castings.
Here is a photo of mine. Note the motor is rotated 90 degrees from its normal position.

[Hawk]

that looks different to mine...and i have random holes in the floor of the cabinet. I fear it may have been altered slightly.

[LesT]

Strangely I saw this post on Ebay.
It looks like it might be a motor mounting plate for a Viceroy.(as described)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTOR-MOUNTIN ... 2340b2e858

Les.T.

[dazz]

Doesn't look anything like mine.

[Hawk]

Thought i'd keep you updated.
I took the motor out and the mount plate. drilled the mount plate for re-locating the motor and put it all back together. Everything lined up perfectly and now the belt is loose on some pulleys and too tight on others. Doesn't look like the engine is at an angle, but i'll have to have a closer look. I might have to put it back to the 3 speeds. Must've been a reason it was like that i suppose.
Another reason for moving the motor back to where it was is that it now hits the inside of the cabinet. So the spindle on the other side of the motor is making a lovely circle in the paintwork.

[dazz]

Hello

It is likely the stepped pulleys are not a matched set.
You could make one stepped pulley to solve the problem.

[Hawk]

Been a while but here i am again.
i've moved my pulleys back to where they were (but a bit more aligned than before!) and tensioned the drive belt a bit better. I've had a little play turning some Aluminium and it's came out quite well. Not really tried steel much yet, but when i have it's came out nice and smooth if i take very VERY light cuts. Still not sure what's going on there.
I've decided to give myself a bit of a project using my lathe and naturally, i've came up against a bit of a problem. I'm making something that requires some threading to be done with 24tpi....and my lathe is a metric one. I could do it very close using the guide on the lathe (1.07mm) but it would be off by around 0.24mm towards the end of the thread.
So a guess my latest question is; Is there any other way i can turn 24tpi on my metric lathe?

[LesT]

Hi,
You can always use a die or a tap to make a thread.
You can cut an imperial thread on a metric lathe, within limits.
There is a Excel spreadsheet which gives help, this subject has been discussed before,
Here's a link to a previous discussion.
viewtopic.php?t=1061
Les.T.

[Steve_S]

Hi,
I found a couple of A3 drawings which show the mounting plate arrangement. I hope they help you, one is from the wood lathe arrangements,but the part numbers appear to be common i.e. "SP***", possibly standard part ?
I only have an A4 scanner so I have scanned the relevant bits.
By the way, it looks like you may have to tip your Lathe over to get the plate out !.
Good Luck ! its very heavy.
Les.T.

Any chance you could do the other half of the motor mount one please metal not wood

Thanks
Sterve

[LesT]

motor mounting2.pdf

RHS of "Motor mounting" previously uploaded. Can someone weld these two together ?

(662.69 KiB) Downloaded 674 times

Hi Steve,

Drawing scanned as requested.
I was making some Nylon pegs for a Coal Bunker door recently and I had a lot of trouble getting a good finish.
In the end I tried a HSS parting tool ground to an extreme rake, like a miniature plane. It produced a great finish.
I expect you are all experts at that sort of stuff, but I'm not !

Les.T.

[paulmo101]

Hi Les

I recently ground up a vertical shear tool as mentioned here:

https://www.metalworkingfun.com/showthread.php?tid=2309

I`ve not had a chance to try it yet but it looks Ok.

Cheers

Paul

[Steve_S]

Thanks Les

motor mounting2.pdf

Hi Steve,

Drawing scanned as requested.
I was making some Nylon pegs for a Coal Bunker door recently and I had a lot of trouble getting a good finish.
In the end I tried a HSS parting tool ground to an extreme rake, like a miniature plane. It produced a great finish.
I expect you are all experts at that sort of stuff, but I'm not !

Les.T.