Hello
There has been some interest in the Denford taper attachment. It's actually fairly straight forward and would be relatively easy to make a copy.
I have used a similar concept to make a tracer attachment for the top slide to shape the end of bars.
CNC Expert
Attachments:
- Anchors for the springs. One of the first things I ever made on the lathe.
- IMG_0435.jpg (74.74 KiB) Viewed 13234 times
- Close up of a couple of followers.
- IMG_0577.jpg (51.63 KiB) Viewed 13234 times
- Showing the taper attachment setup.
- IMG_2017.jpg (76.9 KiB) Viewed 13234 times
- Another variation of skate used to turn small diameter tapers.
- IMG_2019.jpg (59.06 KiB) Viewed 13234 times
- A side view of the taper setup.
- IMG_2024.jpg (74.4 KiB) Viewed 13234 times
- The taper attachment in use.
- IMG_2025.jpg (76.27 KiB) Viewed 13234 times
- The taper attachment in use. Note where the spring anchors are located.
- IMG_2028.jpg (82.42 KiB) Viewed 13234 times
- The support for the back bar.
- IMG_4629.jpg (67.8 KiB) Viewed 13234 times
- All parts except for the back bar.
- IMG_4631.jpg (47.27 KiB) Viewed 13234 times
- These are the parts for the taper attachment.
- IMG_4633.jpg (46.6 KiB) Viewed 13234 times
- These centres hold a turned template.
- IMG_4635.jpg (47.29 KiB) Viewed 13234 times
- The left is for following a profile. Centre is for the taper attachment. Right is a skate I made for the taper attachment.
- IMG_4636.jpg (51.15 KiB) Viewed 13234 times
- The springs are covered to prevent chips jamming in between windings and making them ineffective. The outer tube is fully threaded inside. The length of the springs can be adjusted as required.
- IMG_4638.jpg (48.31 KiB) Viewed 13234 times
Regards
Dazz
Dazz
CNC Expert
Yes it is easy. I've just made one, all except the cast brackets, which I collected from the foundry on Wednesday, and I'm machining as we speak. Most of the drawings are on this site, except for the spring housings and attachment pins, which I had to work out for myself. I'll be making an extra stylus with the bronze slipper, as shown in Dazz's photos.
Another project is the metric/imperial translation set for my 280. I've cut all the gears, now just have to machine the bracket, which again, I've just collected from the foundry.
Richard
Another project is the metric/imperial translation set for my 280. I've cut all the gears, now just have to machine the bracket, which again, I've just collected from the foundry.
Richard
CNC Expert
In case anyone is interested, heres some photos of the taper turning attachment I've made. The only change to the available drawings is that I've made the swivelling plate from 2 1/2" x 1/4" MS plate, not 2 1/2" x 1/8" which Denfords specified. Thats because I thought it would give a better bearing area to the stylus or roller, and anyway all I could get for 2 1/2" x 1/8" was sheared plate.
I made a box jig for drilling the long rail, because I don't have any DROs, and it seemed necessary to me to have all the holes in line and at regular spacing.
Now all I've got to do is move the lathe away from the wall and get round the back to fit the thing. The facings on the back of the bed seem to have been machined, but not drilled, nor are there yet any drillings in the cross slide for the stylus and the spring anchors.
Richard
- The bracket casting as received from foundry
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- Photo0553.jpg (609.72 KiB) Viewed 13187 times
- A box jig for drilling the long rail
- Photo0554.jpg (712.64 KiB) Viewed 13187 times
Now all I've got to do is move the lathe away from the wall and get round the back to fit the thing. The facings on the back of the bed seem to have been machined, but not drilled, nor are there yet any drillings in the cross slide for the stylus and the spring anchors.
Richard
CNC Expert
Hello
Nice.
Looks at least equal to the factory version.
Nice.
Looks at least equal to the factory version.
Regards
Dazz
Dazz
looks very good indeed
how did you make those springs ??
also, how do you disengage the screw feed to use the taper attachment? physically remove the screw/nut?
how did you make those springs ??
also, how do you disengage the screw feed to use the taper attachment? physically remove the screw/nut?
CNC Expert
Jon
Yes, you have to physically remove the cross slide nut in order to use the taper/tracer attachment. Its a bit easier for me, because I've got a long slotted cross slide which is what I normally use, plus a standard cross slide without a nut, so I wind back the slotted slide till the nut disengages, slide it off the back of the saddle, and put the standard slide on.
The spring housings are shown on the GA for the attachment, so I used that as a starting point, plus a little imagination. The outer sleeve is 16G brass tube, 3/4" OD, and the inner sleeve is 16G brass tube 5/8" OD. If anyone is interested, I'll scan my sketches and put them on here.
Richard
Yes, you have to physically remove the cross slide nut in order to use the taper/tracer attachment. Its a bit easier for me, because I've got a long slotted cross slide which is what I normally use, plus a standard cross slide without a nut, so I wind back the slotted slide till the nut disengages, slide it off the back of the saddle, and put the standard slide on.
The spring housings are shown on the GA for the attachment, so I used that as a starting point, plus a little imagination. The outer sleeve is 16G brass tube, 3/4" OD, and the inner sleeve is 16G brass tube 5/8" OD. If anyone is interested, I'll scan my sketches and put them on here.
Richard
CNC Apprentice
Hi Daz, i have The original Taper attachment, I have the wheel guide one in pic 2, but thought your other guide very neat, what materials did you use, i would like to make one. If you get this post, on another subject I noticed you put some photos of the rebuilding of the apron. I am not sure what the 2 hole are for on the right side of the apron 1 near the flip top oiler and 1 near where the dial indicator is. I have posted these on the site (Alan's Viceroy), but am confused what they are for. Thanks for you time, Alan.
CNC Expert
Hello
Just mild steel and brass, straight out of the scrap box.
I can't look at my lathe at present, but I think you may be referring to the holes for the threading gauge.
Just mild steel and brass, straight out of the scrap box.
I can't look at my lathe at present, but I think you may be referring to the holes for the threading gauge.
Regards
Dazz
Dazz
CNC Apprentice
Thanks Daz, pictures 5 and 6 on Alan Viceroy shows the 2 holes. The reason I am asking you is because I have limited knowledge, Richard has suggested that these should take a cone, Spring and grub screw. You seem very knowledgable and thought I would get another opinion. I tried Denfords with limited help, sorry if I seem a bit silly, I just do. Not want to damage anything. Thanks again, Alan.