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Post by davidimurray »

Hi

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you - I've been working on a major overhaul of my cnc mill (re-machined ways, fitted ballscews etc) so I haven't had much time outside working and sleeping!!

The way I started my conversion was to get a single axis going. In the downloads section you will find a manual for the SD2 in there (viewtopic.php?t=561).

Look at pages 35-37 of the manual. The important connections you need are direction input and clock input. Trace these back from the driver to the terminals on the top processor board and mark them. You now need to get hold of an opto-isolator board to protect the PC. This is not essential but highly reccomended. I used an old model of board from CNC4PC. Then build a built of stripboard with the circuit to interface the drivers on that I posted earlier. Once that is done, hook it up the drivers and the optoisolator board - get a PC and see if it works. Make sure the e-stop is released when you try it!

Be extremely careful as you will need to do this with the case open and the power live. Ensure all connections are isolated and do not touch anything. This is basic advice and as such, you should ensure that the system is connected correctly and safely. I accept no responsibility for injury or damage to equipment caused by following these basic guidelines.

Cheers

Dave
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Post by Karl »

Thanks for the reply David. I have been keeping track of this thread, even though I still have not been able to get my hands on the machine yet. Hopefully sometime soon.

Karl
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Hi there:

I have SD2 in good con for my star turn 4
can any 1 help with some diagrams to line it up with a PC with an opto break out board to operate under Mach3?
Willsauto
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There should be enough info in the sd2 manual to get it hooked up to a parallel port break-out board:
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=2326&hilit=sd2
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Re:

Post by willsauto »

https://www.embeddedtronics.com/opto.html
I am considering this one. nice and cheap.

cjmerlin wrote:Hi Dave, You could still use your drive boards if you use opto isolators on the step and direction pins. A couple of resistors and vero board and maybe use opto isolater 1LQ74 or similar.


Hope this might help..




Kind Regards
John
Willsauto
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willsauto wrote:https://www.embeddedtronics.com/
I am considering this one. nice and cheap.

can control up to 4 ax via Mach3

cjmerlin wrote:Hi Dave, You could still use your drive boards if you use opto isolators on the step and direction pins. A couple of resistors and vero board and maybe use opto isolater 1LQ74 or similar.


Hope this might help..




Kind Regards
John
Willsauto
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Hi Dave,

I have a starturn5. I want to convert to MAch3 use.

I did look at it long time back but shelved it because I was working on a CNC 3 axis router which is now compleated and working well.

Now back to the Starturn5. Idealy I want to use the same electronics package from my router to drive the Starurn. Why doubnle up on stepper drives and break out boards when I already have all I need.

Some interfacing knowledge help would be great.

I live near Oldham (Shaw)

If your local, I wuldn't mind meeting up with you.

Best regards

George
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I've uploaded the Starturn 5 electrical diagrams, recently scanned:
viewtopic.php?f=46&t=3031
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Hi David,

Cant see the data sheet for the HY200-2220-A8 motors. Hopefuly these are the motors in my Starturn5.
Can you make the data sheet available please.

Regards

George



davidimurray wrote:Hello

I picked my Starturn up at the weekend. Seems great so far just needs a clean down as it had been sat for a while. Unfortunately I can't get the BBC to work as the floppy drive is knackered :( It's an old school machine and even comes with a pad of orginal denford programming sheets.

One thing I did get with it is the parts manual - I will pop a copy up here sometime. I have made a few discoveries so far :-

1) Stepper motors - thes are Cetronic HY200-2220-210 A8 motors. Attcahed is the data sheet. As you can see they are 2.1A motors - i.e. the denford literature is wrong!

2) The version I have (July 85 BBC Control) has a different case to later machines, there is no quick release catches on the side, the bottom being bolted on.

3) VERY IMPORTANT - on my version, on opening the headstock I found swarf in there which seemed strange as the headstock and casing is sealed all round with some form of silicone. On investigation I found that if you remove the Z axis stepper you will see a hole that goes right through, under the headstock. THis hole comes out just next to the one that goes down into the electrical cabinet :shock: I would HIGHLY reccomend that starturn owners check this and seal the hole if needed. It's only a matter of time before swarf gets into the electronics and lets the smoke out!

Right - back to work

Cheers

Dave
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Don't know what happened to the original link, but I've recently scanned one in:
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3032
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Denford Admin wrote:Don't know what happened to the original link, but I've recently scanned one in:
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3032

Many thanks.
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