Denford Software & Machines

Hi,
I'm new to the forum, and thought i would write a quick post (or not so quick).

I recently bought the viceroy 280vs off chrisG for £300, since i bought the lathe i have fixed a few problems, and encountered a few and also converted the lathe to single phase using a inverter.

1. Screw cutting gearbox: When i first got the lathe running i engaged the gearbox, and it worked, and then stopped also ChrisG had problems with the dial and lever matching, this was my first job I took the front plate off the gearbox and encountered the intimidating sets of gears (well intimidating for me being only 16) , I then basically repeated what chrisG did but replaced with new keystock since then i have had no problems with it , i also managed to get the dial an lever matching, he had started with the internal slider in the wrong place so the dial rotated 1,5,4,3,2.

2. The play in the top slide: All this required was grub screws tightening up and a washer being placed between the knurled zeroing dial and the slide body.

3.The electrical problems: I decided to rewire the machine for single phase using a 3 HP TECO single to three phase inverter unit, i removed all wiring from the machine including the contactors and joystick and closed the pulley, setting it to its highest setting the inverter had the benefit of fine speed control from a potentiometer and also for/rev control, I also wired safety interlocks (chuck guard and door switch) back into the machine. Electronics is my strongest point so this didn't take long even know i am only 16

Although i fixed a few major problems i have still got one, being the large fibre gear which selects high and low it has a few teeth missing at one part which causes a clucking noise and slowly knocks its self out of gear, i have temporarily overcome this by cable tying it to the gear door handle, but was wondering what the best fix is for this, is it possible to turn the gear round as it has no teeth missing at the other side? or should i try and get a new one made ? also the screw cutting half nuts clamp very tightly onto the screw is their any way to adjust this?

I am planning to add a proper coolant pump to the lathe, could anybody recommend one as i have a central heating pump in it at the moment.

Even with these problems the lathe still produces good finishes and i have built a simple oscillating engine on it, let me now your thoughts, much appreciated.

Thanks for taking the time to post up - very impressive.

Someone else was asking about fibre gears recently:
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=2983

Nice price you paid for that lathe, and good job on the wiring too. You'd do well to ditch the power-sapping variable belt altogether and fit normal vee-belts if you get a chance. You'll have a smoother running machine producing better finishes and more power on tap.

Nice job on the wobbler - you should put it up on HMEM.

Hi
Think i might change the pulleys, i had thought of it but i didn't have much money then as i had just paid £300 for the lathe, and £200 for the inverter, what do you think i would get the lathe? (just curious) i thought it was a good buy at £300 and it was my first proper lathe and only being 16 i couldn't afford to spend loads on one, took a bit to persuade my dad to go and get it but it was all worth it.

Still haven't got the RPM readout setup yet, anybody got any ideas for this and i didn't know how to wire the start and stop buttons to my inverter, it didn't tell me in the instructions, has anybody got any experience with this kind of inverter?

Thanks

Still haven't got the RPM readout setup yet, anybody got any ideas for this and i didn't know how to wire the start and stop buttons to my inverter, it didn't tell me in the instructions, has anybody got any experience with this kind of inverter?

If this is the same drive, then it looks easy enough to wire up fwd/rev push buttons (see page 17):
https://www.acpd.co.uk/sei/s/1488/minicon%20manual.pdf

It also talks about a 0-10V DC output which indicates frequency -
you could buy something to show this output (https://uk.rs-online.com/web/1763869.html)
or make your own (https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-LED ... -RPM-gauge)

On my machine the buttons were just pressing onto the momentary contacts on the main contactors for the lathe so if you have junked the contactors you could put microswitches on the back of them I guess. Those contactors are quite rare so you might be able to sell them for spare parts. I re-wound the pull-in coils on mine to work with 240V

You can often find inverter control boxes here: https://www.homeworkshop.org.uk/

Pete

hi
i have got the forward and reverse switches working on my inverter, the thing i am not sure about is the wiring/inputs for momentary start and stop buttons on my inverter (that is the same instruction book i have)

I have kept all the switches contact blocks just removed the main contactors at the rear, still have them i believe that they run on 24v also have the transformer which ran them and joystick if anybody wants to buy them.

Never thought of using the FM+ output, something for me to try.

Thanks

the thing i am not sure about is the wiring/inputs for momentary start and stop buttons

If I understand you correctly, then you may have to wire up the pushbuttons to a couple of relays and interlock them together.
This rough sketch should give you the idea...it won't stop you commanding fwd and rev at the same time, but I presume the drive can cope without blowing up ? PS
SFR = Spindle Forward Relay

Hi
So does all this wire through the For and Rev inputs? Do you have a more detailed circuit diagram? and could you recommend what Relays to use ?

Thanks

I doubt you need interlocks or relays for button remote inputs. I'm sure the inverter would take care of any safety interlocking.

You just need a couple of 3 pole relays (2 off N.O. 1 off NC) - contact current will be low, relay coil operating voltage depends on what the inverter is using for logic input/output...

Hi
where are the start and stop push buttons in this circuit?
Thanks

FWD PB is short for Forward Push Button...

So you are using only two buttons to switch between for/rev and on/off

i want to use 3 buttons two for on/off and one for for/rev

I can't see how you'd do that with 3 momentary buttons...
When you press ON you'd have to press FWD or REV at the same time otherwise how would you pick the starting condition

So, you could either have two latching buttons that are mechanically or electrically interlocked from both being pressed at the same time.
Or, have 3 momentary buttons where two latch up the FWD/REV relays as my sketch, and have the 3rd button as an OFF button.
You could wire the OFF button through the common feed to the other buttons so that pressing it will open circuit and drop out any relays that have been "latched" on.
I don't know how you stop the inverter however, normally it's done with an seperate enable input which will stop it regardless of the FWD / REV inputs.

The for/rev is not momentary it latches in and out(in for forward out for reverse) and the start and stop switches are momentary (look at the control box on my lathe) the big red one and smaller green above it, i know it can be done just don't know how.

This is my last guess now at something that should do what you want :

Thanks i will give this a try

IT WORKED!
thanks

Well my old chuck was getting old, and was no good for precision work and i didn't have another set of jaws for it either, so i bought a new chuck ,£200 later and i had a 160mm vertex chuck and backplate, i am very pleased with it, although the backplate didn't fit properly and required some adjustment in the taper, i contacted rdg tools and they just said it should fit perfect and that was it, so i was a bit disappointed with them, but i got it to fit in the end.

Here it is turning a large pin, for a funfair hydraulic ram.