Alan's Viceroy TDS 1/1 Lathe part 2

[Alan]

This is my next installment, Richard mentioned that their might be a additional place near the chuck to oil, I have taken a photo below showing a screw fitting, I partly removed, but was not sure what on the end. Though I would show the picture for advice and guidance. I have also added the serial number if anyone knows the year of manufacture.Also the taper system on back of lathe, 2 pictures of guards I also got with lathe, any ideas where they fit. Thanks for all your help, Alan.

[rpwilson]

This is my next installment, Richard mentioned that their might be a additional place near the chuck to oil, I have taken a photo below showing a screw fitting, I partly removed, but was not sure what on the end. Though I would show the picture for advice and guidance. I have also added the serial number if anyone knows the year of manufacture.Also the taper system on back of lathe, 2 pictures of guards I also got with lathe, any ideas where they fit. Thanks for all your help, Alan.

Umm did I say there might be another oiling point near the chuck? I did say there should be an oil filling plug on the end of the gearbox casing, but I think you'd found that anyway.

I think the two piece guard you show is actually a cutter guard to fit a horizontal milling machine, and nothing to do with the lathe, but the one piece fits in the tee slot at the rear of the saddle, so it moves with the saddle and is useful when cutting some way away from the headstock and out of range of the normal chuck guard.
It looks like you've got the main rail and brackets for the taper turning/copying attachment. Are there any square steel blocks amongst the rest of the lathe fittings? If so, you've probably got most of the rest of it. I can send you some photos of what it should look like, because I've just finished making one for mine!
My best guess for a date is around 1970

Richard

[Alan]

Hi Richard
I have the blocks, springs and taper bar, the guard that may not be from the viceroy has the same paint, I may be able to use it for something. The screw near the chuck, if I remove, how much oil do you put, is it a squirt or do you fill it up. i have used a engine oil to use on the oilers, would you suggest any other. Cheers Alan.

[rpwilson]

Hi Richard
I have the blocks, springs and taper bar, the guard that may not be from the viceroy has the same paint, I may be able to use it for something. The screw near the chuck, if I remove, how much oil do you put, is it a squirt or do you fill it up. i have used a engine oil to use on the oilers, would you suggest any other. Cheers Alan.

If you are talking about that screw on the face of the headstock, on the same level as the backgear operating lever, then I believe that it is just to close off the drilling that the backgear fork shaft runs in. That shaft is just moved too and fro endwards, and doesn't rotate. A drop of oil can't do it any harm.

In your photo of the end of the saddle apron, showing the thread dial, there seems to be an empty threaded hole in the apron. If this really is empty, then I think it should contain a steel ball, a spring and a grub screw to act as a detent to stop the half nuts from dropping out of engagement when you are screwcutting.

Richard

[Alan]

Hi Richard
I have magnified the hole near the thread dial, I presume you mean this area, see pic. If these parts are missing where would I get them from, thanks Alan.

[rpwilson]

Hi Richard
I have magnified the hole near the thread dial, I presume you mean this area, see pic. If these parts are missing where would I get them from, thanks Alan.

Well, a little research suggests that what you need is a 5/16" BSW grub screw, about 7/16" long, a 3/16 dia coil spring, as shown on drg ML105/305, and a little 1/4" dia cone pointed steel plug as shown on drg ML 105/306. You may even find that the spring and plug are still in the hole. Its possible that these are also missing from what seems to be an empty threaded hole near the apron oil filler, and would have acted on the lever which engages/disengages power feed.

Both these drawings are on this site, see an item marked something like 'ML 100, 105, 110, 115 drawings scanned' The 105 series are the third item down from the top.

Richard

[Alan]

Thanks Richard, I will do some investigation to see if anything is still in the holes on Monday when the carer comes to look after my wife, I have put in a piece of rod to test the depth, seems to be at least 2 to 3 inches deep. I have tried the backgear and leadscrew shaft to see how they run. On the leadscrew I get feeds to the along the bed and on the crosslide. On the backgear their is feed along the bed. What I thought the screwed holes were for, was for attaching things to the apron, I read in the 280 manual that the apron on that lathe had tapped holes on the apron for attaching things. I have looked at the drawings which are limited, will keep looking.

Alan

[rpwilson]

Thanks Richard, I will do some investigation to see if anything is still in the holes on Monday when the carer comes to look after my wife, I have put in a piece of rod to test the depth, seems to be at least 2 to 3 inches deep. I have tried the backgear and leadscrew shaft to see how they run. On the leadscrew I get feeds to the along the bed and on the crosslide. On the backgear their is feed along the bed. What I thought the screwed holes were for, was for attaching things to the apron, I read in the 280 manual that the apron on that lathe had tapped holes on the apron for attaching things. I have looked at the drawings which are limited, will keep looking.

Alan

Alan
If you look on drawing ML110/300, you can just make out that at both locations there are arrows showing the provision of a 5/16 Whitworth grub screw 3/8" long, part ML 105/305 (spring) and part ML 105/306 (the pointed plug) They appear to serve the dual purpose of adding friction to the feed selector and half nut lever, and to locate the respective shafts longitudinally. If you need these parts, I'll look and see if I've got a couple of grub screws and springs, machining the pointed plugs is only a few minutes work.

I wonder what issue of the 280 manual you have. Mine refers to tapped holes in the saddle wings, not the apron, and indeed my 280 has a tapped hole in the rear right saddle wing for the coolant pipe clamp. Mine has tee slots in the rear saddle wings, one of which the travelling steady fits in, but I am aware that for some reason not all the lathes had these tee slots.

Richard

[Alan]

Thanks Richard for the kind offer, been out to my workshop today, used a magnifier with built in light and have found that the grub screws are their, about 1/2 inch below the surface. Tested with Allen key, and everything is fine. Not having good sight and my limited knowledge, can be a bit frustrating. It was the wings I have read about, which confused me. Thanks for all your guidance, cheers Alan.