Denford Software & Machines

After some weeks of no use i fired my triac up today and got the error code 1008 spindle drive fault come on the screen.
Iv checked all the swithes.oil levels and atc sync with the tool to spindle i cant find anything wrong.
Does anyone have any ideas of what to look for and where please?

The triacs running Fanuc OMC control.

Do the axis move?

Have you checked the fuses? Fuse F1. There should also be a fuse on the Sprint 1600 drive card.

Martin wrote:Do the axis move?

Have you checked the fuses? Fuse F1. There should also be a fuse on the Sprint 1600 drive card.

Thanks for that tip mate.
Fuse F1 had blown but now iv replaced it im getting a loud clicking and screaching noise comming from the back cabinet and the spindle is turning but very slowly.
Does this sound like the drive card has gone??

Can you turn the spindle manually?

It could be that the Brower unit is pushing on to the draw bar.

Martin wrote:Can you turn the spindle manually?

It could be that the Brower unit is pushing on to the draw bar.

When the machines off i can turn the spindle by hand but when its on its rotating and making a hell of a racket.
To be honest it sounds like relays clapping but becasue im at the front of the machine i cant get behind to see because if i leave the machine making the noise it eventually blows the fuse at F1 again so i cant get to see whats happening in the cabinet until tomorrow when i get some help.

Had a good look today with my father who's a sparks and weve got he following results so far.

If fuse F1 is removed the machine will power up no problem and alarm 1008 comes on the monitor.

If we pull the spindle forward relay and F1 we get the same as above which has eliminated it being the motor. (so we understand)

If we put F1 back in then the clattering noise i was getting is comming from the contactor switching in and out at high speed and not staying in where as it stays in with when F1 fuse is removed.

Where comming to the conclusion that the Lynx spindle drive board has gone down but im open to suggestions if anyone has any please??

If the Lynx board has gone down then is there any place that repairs them or does anyone know where i can get another board please and at what costs roughly??

thanks in advance
jay

jaycnc wrote:If we put F1 back in then the clattering noise i was getting is comming from the contactor switching in and out at high speed and not staying in where as it stays in with when F1 fuse is removed.

What contactor? Can you post a photo?

Martin wrote:

jaycnc wrote:If we put F1 back in then the clattering noise i was getting is comming from the contactor switching in and out at high speed and not staying in where as it stays in with when F1 fuse is removed.

What contactor? Can you post a photo?

Will have to post a pic tomorrow mate but its the contactor from the mains with L1, L2 and L3 going in to it.
The funny part is that this stays in when F1 is pulled.

What type of Fanuc control do you have? A , B or C?

Not sure about any replacement drives, but from the manual, you should be able to spec up a suitable replacement quite easily:
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1666&hilit=lynx

I have added the electrical drawings to the forum.
It appears that the SDC is fed from the Fanuc power supply.
It may be worth checking the voltage to the coil of the contactor.

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=2651

Heres some pics of the contactor and the drive board.
Judgng by the scematics that where posted above im not so sure the machine is the OMC model because those dont match the scematics i have which match the machine

It should have a tag on the main Fanuc control card with the Fanuc type on it.

Have you tried disconecting the armature wires from the Lynx drive card?
I think the Fanuc needs a isolated drive so the equvalent that we would use now would be the Sprint 1200i.

Sorry iv not got back sooner with some results on this guys but iv been up to my neck in it and this had to go on the back burner until this morning.

We disconected the motor and still got the same outcome so disconected the board all together and everything was ok so all the wiring checked out.
We tested the motor an everything ok.

Once we got the board out we tested the diodes and rectifier and it looks like 1 diode is down and 1 rectifier so im sending the board off for repair.
I dare say it would be an easy fix and cheap fix but we cant be sure if anything else has blown and i havent got the time really so it lloks like the diode and rectifier are going to be expensive but at leats ill get my toy back running

Thanks for all your help guys.

jay