Bit hard to see from your picture (or the picture you found?), but my (old) Viceroy (imperial) had this arrangement: Gear Arangement.jpg On the bit where it says 54T 18T there are 2 sliders which allow the gears to move on a slider so smaller gears move closer, bigger gears move further away, and th...

As I understand it you can't disengage the half nuts when cutting a metric thread with an inch pitch leadscrew and vice versa or you'll lose synchronisation even with a threading dial so not much point in making a metric threading dial unless you're going to change the leadscrew to metric. Ah, wasn...

Another update - the QCTP I was trying to buy, didn't happen from the seller I had chosen, so I found another seller (selling the same item) and asked them to price match, which they did - but sadly I was 'stung' for import tax etc via FedEx when it came into the UK from India - an additional £44.28...

I'm not limiting myself, just haven't got around to 'more' yet. I can print a 135/127 compound gear ML114/9 I think is the drg number. I'm now sure I'm going to be cutting imperial threads let alone metric threads either, as in I currently don't have a need, but it is always a useful thing to be abl...

Thanks David, Interesting thought - you are suggesting there might be 2 ways to move the apron, one with the lever (engaging the leadscrew with the half nuts) and one with the knob (but via 2 gears, one on each side of the leadscrew to apply a 'central' force so it doesn't try to push the leadscrew...

Yes, mine's an S/L - I think the L/S is a longer bed - at least that's what I read on lathes.co.uk I think. Seems maybe not - I've just had a quick scan and I can no longer see mention of a longer bed - not sure where I read that now... s-l1600 (1).jpg The one on eBay is 3 phase also, no 'home' conv...

Thanks David, Interesting thought - you are suggesting there might be 2 ways to move the apron, one with the lever (engaging the leadscrew with the half nuts) and one with the knob (but via 2 gears, one on each side of the leadscrew to apply a 'central' force so it doesn't try to push the leadscrew ...

Thanks for replies. It's not for the longitudinal drive engagement (tailstock to headstock or vice versa), that arrangement is the right hand most lever and split gear arrangement. The gear arrangement I have does not engage with anything except itself. I'm aware of the cross slide feed from these 2...

Hi Richard, Thanks for the brochure - I hadn't seen that one before. My 'new' Viceroy is denoted S/L strangely, not LS and it has the squared off shape - my 'old' Viceroy is denoted simply 1 S and it's that one that has the sloped off headstock area. Thanks for letting me know yours has the sloping ...

So once again, it's Happy New Lathe Day to me (HNLD!) as I've just been to collect a Denford Viceroy TDS 1 S/L - so that now makes 2 Denford Viceroy TDS1's sat in my garage - whoops! It's slightly different to my other one though - different headstock area, different main bed and different main apro...

Thanks, According to the linked page, yes, I'm looking at an Indian clone - fingers crossed it is ok. I'll be buying through eBay so at least if it is not as described (ie it is defective) I can get it returned for free and my money back, then consider my options again. There is no negative or neutr...

I'd like to add a QCTP to my Viceroy TDS1 lathe but am unsure if I'm looking at a size that will fit or is suitable. I've identified a seller who has a T63 kit at a good price but I just want to be sure that it is not too large for the centre height. From various searches online, I've found another ...

Thanks Pete, I've downloaded it and have used it to generate a 80T transfer gear which I'm just 3D printing now. Here's the result of last nights 3D print for an 80T change gear. I thought that the 4 additional holes might a. reduce printing time as less material, b. help to transfer forces around t...

I've been 'playing' with printing myself some gears and in the process I think I might be missing a spacer washer / bush as I seem to have a friction interference fit rather than a smooth and free fit. In the gear side of my lathe, I have the shaft which holds the screw gear - an one piece item that...

Thanks Richard, You are certainly not wrong. I've been reading various bits and pieces since my last post and I now understand that Metric gears have module numbers and Imperial gears have DP - Diametrical Pitch. It threw me initially as I knew from the drawings that I need 18DP gears, but the onlin...

From playing with various calculators and on-line design tools, I think the module is 1.5 for my gear set. I've measured my existing 36T gear and it comes out at 53.78, so allowing for a bit of wear, call it 54mm. 54/36 = 1.5, so I'm going to put that into my gear CAD tool, generate the .stl then pr...

In trying to sort out replacement gears to enable me to cut threads, I've started playing with 3D printing my own gears (only for light home / hobby use). I have the drawings for the gears from this forum but I don't necessarily understand all of the terms, or not all of the terms are the same with ...

Thanks David, I wasn't aware of that website so I'll give it a look. I've created gears using this website - https://evolventdesign.com/pages/gear-stl-generator, though it is metric so I've had to adapt imperial sizes to the nearest metric size the website can handle, or re-jig them later in post pr...

Thanks! Turns out there is a spacer behind the 100T gear, so it can go backwards so as to align with the Fig 2 chart (if I had the gears). I can't use the 100T in place of the 56T/18T (where the 80T is shown) as the shaft diameters are different - so I'd either have to turn a bush (not a problem as ...

Brilliant! Many thanks for helping to clear this up for me - much appreciated. I've found some 3D print gears via Thingiverse but I just need to check my current shaft dimensions - I think it's 9/16" shaft - then learn how to print in PETG (I've only used PLA so far) - don't really want to mess with...