Hi Guys, I'm in the middle of making a heavier duty vertical head for my Senior Mill, and I'd like to paint in in a matching colour. But...... the mill is painted in the Denford 'turquoise' rather than the more common Senior Green. Does anyone have a paint reference for the colour that was used for ...

OK, made a few small changes. The re-loaded ballnuts have now given me a huge difference with almost no backlash at all. I've also updated my stepper drivers and transformer. I've got 70v 5.2A stepper with a 48v toroidal transformer. Rectified and smoothed (100 v 1 farad capacitor) this feeding 62 v...

Well, had another look at the backlash issue- The ballnuts are knackered! I took the topslide assembly off and removed the pulleys and stepper motor from the rear of the saddle assembly. Getting the ballscrew out wasn't a problem and I then removed the ballnuts. The balls were in a very sorry state!...

As a postscript......... It was all my fault! I had miss-wired the coolant relay circuit and fed it 24vdc( don't ask!) instead of just putting a small relay across the contacts - this caused all the grief! :delirious: When re connecting everything I found that what I was about to do didn't seem righ...

Well, I finally decided to change the combivert and managed to get, via the 'inverter supermarket' a WEG CFW10 inverter. This I've used to replace the Combivert and it wires in with very little change. The only thing that I need to change is the wiring of the overload relay to ensure that it cuts ou...

Hi Steve. I've got 24.5 volt AC on FLB and FLC referenced to '9'. This gives the correct action of both the overload and motor control relay. I'm getting 0v between com and ref, the com-pp differential is 14.5vdc. I'm also getting a full variable from the pc to the combivert of 5 volt dc, but still ...

Well, finally got to re wire all sort of bits and got power back onto the lathe. But still no response from the spindle. I've looked at the Combivert, and although I've got the 'power' LED lit, there is no '0 volt' LED lit. There is no response from the spindle when the computer tells it to move. No...

Hi Guys, well a trawl through the 'web put me onto a company called Spartan Controls in Slough. They have a list of the Benedikt & Jager relays on their site and following a quick phone call to some very helpful people on Monday morning and a confirming e-mail to ensure the correct info was sent/rec...

OK, the relay has been removed and the coil is short circuited !
The relay is a Benedikt & Jager k2-09A10. These are still available so I'll try and get hold of a new one.

Well, not got the brain working well, but got into the workshop and had a go. The trail left the answer as being the R1 relay! This was not what I've expected from comments on other strings about the probability of an issue with the (20+ year old)Combivert if the e-stop was used! So it seems that th...

Thanks guys.
I'll try and track it back through once i've got rid of the dreaded lurgy and can get back to the workshop!

JOhn

Well, I found the first problem! The fuse F3 had blown. But, the replacement blew immediately. Now, I removed the cooling fan which seemed to have a problem. But it now seems that the problem is in the motor overload relay which is permanently engaged. This is blowing the F3 fuse and preventing the ...

The main spindle drive on the Easiturn just went off, but I can't find any power going to it. It seems that there is a relay (Marked R1 on the circuit diagrams) and that there is no power getting past this point. Has anyone any ideas as to how this relay is controlled? ANy ideas would be very welcome!

Yes, exactly that! I'd actually do it the other way though (or I did on the last one I made manually). I turned and screwcut the end, then took down the rest of the shaft to size and shaped the rear of the buffer head. I then parted off from the stock, reversed in the chuck to hold by the shaft and ...

Next little bit of work I asked it to do was to turn, face and radius the end of a piece of 2" Cast Iron as a test prior to doing some buffers for the model. No problem at all once I got my head around the programming of the 'G code'. The ability to programme a radius, or even better to programme th...

I'm part way through turning a control-less easiturn3 into a working lathe. I'v used control card and software from EaziCNC (CDE) which has been great to work with, especially for someone who last did contol wiring a good few years ago! The lathe was complete but missing the PNC 3 control and the st...

Hi Admin, I actually had a PM from a member here who is currently converting one to mach 3 and he gave me some very useful information and confirmed a few guesses I had too! Lathe is working very nicely thanks, what a great product it is and very well made! The lube pump is actually wired direct not...

Managed to adjust the ballnut to give almost zero backlash on the cross slide - not the easiest thing to do and I do now need to take the whole thing apart to modify the screw holes to enable the three cap head screws to go back in again..... For those who haven't done it the three cap head screws h...

Managed to adjust the ballnut to give almost zero backlash on the cross slide - not the easiest thing to do and I do now need to take the whole thing apart to modify the screw holes to enable the three cap head screws to go back in again..... But, the lathe was very good yesterday with the adjustmen...

I seem to have excessive backlash in the 'x' axis on the easiturn lathe. Ive taken off the cross slide and there seems to be little backlash in the ballscrew, but, the ballnut seems to have a lot of play in it. Is it possible to adjust the ballnut at all? I see that there are three caphead screws ei...