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The modified square section is just 5 degree flanks AFAIK. Hell would freeze over before I spent that much on a single-use tap, I would look at producing an Evanut from Delrin or even making a tap from silver steel.

The nut should have a 5/8" spigot. Perhaps yours has a compound slide nut fitted or one off another lathe?

As you've discovered, module and DP are just two ways of sizing involute gears depending on if they are sized in inches or metric. If you want an excellent conversion table you can get one from Davall Gear called "CONVERSION DP to CP to MOD.pdf". I can't seem to find it online now but it used to be ...

I never had one of those apart but I have had the later model apart and those were not. Also be aware that the inner race tends to be very tight on the spindle which makes effective adjustment very difficult. If you were to pull off those bearings and when re-fitting them they need a lot of affort ...

If it's the upturned taper cone that's broken away you could effect a temporary repair by drilling through and bolting from below with countersunk screws, unless it's torn a hole. My first lathe was an atlas that has been crashed and repaired in this fashion. It was still like it when I sold it on.

The Denford gearboxes run on cast iron bearings. I don't recall seeing any yellow metal in mine so you should be good.

I occasionally get asked if I can make these (normally by people who have come here looking for help with their chewed-up or broken gear). These gears are long-since unavailable as a stock part and the one quote I got years ago was £270 for one (which ironically started off my journey in making ...

Most lathes (I never checked my Denford when I had it) deliberately have the top of the cross-slide dovetail at or below the level of the saddle tee slots. This is to allow a person to remove the cross slide and mount a fixture plate across the slots for line boring or horizontal boring duties, or ...

Yes indeed, the further away from the pivot centre the greater the forces trying to rotate the table. If you had your drill hole centred on the pivot it would not turn at all.

I'd say that is a rare item. God knows even steadies are few and far between.

Personally I woud fabricate a post that locks into one of the saddle tee slots and has an arm with a clamp on the end that grabs the edge of that table to stop it from ever rotating. Those wedge pins are just not going to ...

You can sit the cabinet on timber however you want. the geometry of the lathe is unaffected because the bed is not subjected to twisting forces via the cabinet.

Nose thread and register data for 5" lathes (screw-on chucks)


Andy, I know you have asked for no comments in this thread but I think it's important to point out there's an error in this drawing. It has the thread major diameter as 1.597"/1.595" which clearly should be 1.497"/1.495" or nothing ...

Those slugs will come out. I had a similar lathe and they were stuck pretty well in there with fine swarf dust and old grease. Run some penetrating oil/brake cleaner in the holes and let it soak a while (like you have done). Then lift on the compound slide base whilst hitting all around with a small ...

0.7% is 7 thou over an inch so if you have say a 16 tpi nut with 8 turns that's less than 4 thou error over the length of the nut - nothing at all for a normal fastener.

Pretty sure that on the non-gearbox models the spindle gear and the gear behind the stud gear are similar tooth count. The gearing chart in the pic above certainly suggests so.

Okay,

The driver gears are any gear that drives another. The driven gear is any gear that is driven by another. Any gear that both drives, and is driven is called an idler. Idlers are just space-fillers, you can fit any size gear so long as it fits in the space available.

In your pic the 24T Stud ...

As David wrote above the perfect translation for imperial to metric threads is using a 127 tooth gear. However, there are a number of combinations which produce an error that is smaller than the typical error tolerance in a leadscrew (not to mention any wear that might be present), so for all ...

I cannot see any harm coming from that, though I don't know why you would want to.

The nutlink belt in the pic is perfectly good to replace like for like. To make threading it round easy get some string and stick it onto the pulley with a dab of grease then it will carry the end round where you can grab it. Tie the string to the new belt and pull it round. It's fiddly but it is do ...

Cast iron won't work here, it's a plastic gear meshing with a steel one, and it mounts on a steel hub. Plastic to keep noise down and so it doesn't affect the finish by transmitting vibrations down the spindle I suppose.