Motor and VFD

[Steve_S]

re this post viewtopic.php?f=50&t=4694

Finally had the money to buy this set up will be installing it over the Christmas break.

A three phase 1hp .75kw motor and an Invertek IP20 1.5kW 1 phase in, 3 phase out ODE-2-12150-1KB12 VFD

Just set it up on bench to test it out

[Steve_S]

OK so got the new motor in and VFD mounted its just changed the lathe running so smooth the cuts are better and i seem to be getting less chatter.

After fitting motor had a bearing noise had suspected it had one but the motor that was on it was so noisy, any way its the bearings in the mid pulley [top stepped one] had a go at getting the shaft out but it seem to be stuck ????

Is there a grub screw or other fixing I have missed other than the two on each end of the bar in the cast housing that hangs down ?

and does any body know what size the bearing are ?

Thanks

Steve

[LesT]

Hi, HNY,
I have a copy of assembly sketch ML100/600, this shows the countershaft assembly.
You can probably find it in the drawings which are in the stickies section.
The bearings are listed as FAG 6205ZZ two off, deep groove.
They are held in with circlips at each end.
Caution: this might not be the same as the one fitted to your lathe, the sketch is undated
and has no applicability statement.
If you can't find the drawing I will scan it in and post it.

Les.T.

[Steve_S]

Thanks for that LesT I found the drawing you mentioned but as you can see from photo mines a bit different.

I have undone the two grub screws the shaft moves in the cast mountings but wont come through the pulley ???? I made a jacking screw and just put a dent in the side of the cabinet I cant see anything iv missed would you say that shaft should just slide out ??????????????????????????


Thanks

Steve

[Steve_S]

Les Have been looking at that drawing again and if the shaft is a similar design to that it wont just push out will have to unbolt the cast arms to remove it

[LesT]

Hi,
I could suggest a few things if you like......
1) Take the link belt off, both upper and lower runs. Evaluate whether there is actually a problem with the countershaft bearings first, I assume you have the little tool to twist the pins ?, if not you can do it with pliers.
2) Assuming there is a problem identified it might be possible to remove the bracket from the lathe by removing the retaining screws from above. I have no idea whether that is possible, easy or difficult.
3) Alternatively, remove the grub screw shaft retainers drill a small hole, say 3mm into the casting at each end, above the centre line and sloping towards the centre, and irrigate with release oil for a while, say 7 days.
4) Attempt to knock shaft through, you might have to drill a hole through the end panel for a small drift. I would be cautious because you could end up breaking the castings if you aren't careful.....

good luck !

Les.T.

[TDIPower]

Just to throw a few more ideas...

Are the bearings in the pulley or in the casting? (The picture seems to indicate they are in the pulley as there isn't enough casting round the shaft for a bearing).
If the bearings are in the casting is the pulley on a woodruff key on the shaft? (could it be there has been a little wear and the key is now 'turned' in the pulley a little)
In my mind there needs to be something to stop the pulley wandering on the shaft whether the bearings are in the pulley or the casting, unless it relied on an interference fit (I've had to use nearly 20tons to press a shaft out of a bearing in the past that was fitted with a little heat to it and the shaft in the freezer for 20mins) .
Could there be a grub screw accessed through a V groove in the pulley? (could this be hidden under a belt that is screwed onto the shaft to stop travel.)

Just more ideas for you.

Pete

[LesT]

Hi,

Ignore what I said about drilling holes etc !, I didn't notice that you said the shaft was free in the castings.
I think you may have to remove the castings from their attachment under the lathe bed.
The shaft may be shouldered, with circlips to locate the bearings onto the shaft or pulley.
Les.T.

[Steve_S]

Hi,

Ignore what I said about drilling holes etc !, I didn't notice that you said the shaft was free in the castings.
I think you may have to remove the castings from their attachment under the lathe bed.
The shaft may be shouldered, with circlips to locate the bearings onto the shaft or pulley.
Les.T.

Hello
Yep I pulled the lathe out and had a good look today your right I would have to unbolt the arms but that's going to mean I will have to remove the lathe from the stand as the steel drip tray covers bolts/screw that hold them on I can confirm its the bearings on that pulley that are noisy. Ill have live with it for a bit might be a job for warmer weather.

Thanks for your input guys
Steve

[Fiddler]

Hi,

Ignore what I said about drilling holes etc !, I didn't notice that you said the shaft was free in the castings.
I think you may have to remove the castings from their attachment under the lathe bed.
The shaft may be shouldered, with circlips to locate the bearings onto the shaft or pulley.
Les.T.

Hello
Yep I pulled the lathe out and had a good look today your right I would have to unbolt the arms but that's going to mean I will have to remove the lathe from the stand as the steel drip tray covers bolts/screw that hold them on I can confirm its the bearings on that pulley that are noisy. Ill have live with it for a bit might be a job for warmer weather.

Thanks for your input guys
Steve

Steve I can confirm that is indeed how it is done and posted some pics here https://denfordata.com/bb/viewtopic.php ... 297#p24083. I have a question for you as I have the same countershaft arrangement as yours and not as per the drawing ML100/600 with adjustment. The shaft on ours is at a fixed centre and I have had trouble trying to get the correct tension on upper belt ? I was thinking of trying to introduce some kind of mechanical tensioner between spindle and countershaft or shim the top of the brackets were they contact the underside of lathe bed. Did you find same issue ? Just removing a link isn't a fine enough adjustment for me.