Hi again...
Martin is right - terminal 23 on the spindle drive is an output to the Guardmaster to say the spindle is stopped. The drive isn't giving this signal so the guardmaster does as expected.
The main problem is NOP on the drive. If we can clear this then the other problem will proably go away!
Reading the manual, NOP is displayed if the Control Release signal is missing.
The Control Release signal is given by the link between pins 14 and 19 on the 23 way drive connector (I know I've said this in a previous post but it seems to the the source of the problem).
You can double check this link is OK by measuring the voltage between terminals 13 and 19 - it should be +15 volts
Notice also that the small PCB mounted switch on your original KEB drive just above the right hand side of the connector is in position 'B'. This is important in order for the Guardmaster to operate when the spindle is stopped. Does your new drive have an equivelant switch?
Did the IDs of the parameter list I sent match the parameter numbers in the new drive? A copy of a manual I had shows only 23 parameters but the listing has many more. I assume the manual I found is not for the F4 drive but can you confirm!
Mirac Spindle Problems.
Moderators: Martin, Steve, Mr Magoo
hello once again 
I checked the voltage against 13 nd 19 as you said and im getting 0V.
There isnt a switch like on the old drive.
Most of the paramters where identical, i cant find the parameters for op..
But whilst looking at the machine today, i noticed that on the eurocard, it kept changed from 8 to 5/S. I looked this up and its something to do with the E-Stop button.
I feel like getting a hammer and smashing this button into lots of litle tiny bits.. but then im going to have to go buy a new one so i thought nah i shouldnt...
There were a few parameters that i couldnt match up, i will write all these down and let you know if ou need this informtaion...
Also, i might be going insane but is the ESR supposed to be activated all the time?
I checked the voltage against 13 nd 19 as you said and im getting 0V.
There isnt a switch like on the old drive.
Most of the paramters where identical, i cant find the parameters for op..
But whilst looking at the machine today, i noticed that on the eurocard, it kept changed from 8 to 5/S. I looked this up and its something to do with the E-Stop button.
I feel like getting a hammer and smashing this button into lots of litle tiny bits.. but then im going to have to go buy a new one so i thought nah i shouldnt...
There were a few parameters that i couldnt match up, i will write all these down and let you know if ou need this informtaion...
Also, i might be going insane but is the ESR supposed to be activated all the time?
-
Triac whizz
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To get rid of the NOP status ie, to enable the drive you have to apply 18 -24v (I think thats the voltage) to the control release terminal you'll find one of the terminals outputs the required voltage - in simplest terms connect the 2 to enable the drive.
This is all off the top of my head so RTM to be sure
you'll find one of the terminals outputs the required voltage - in simplest terms connect the 2 to enable the drive.This is all off the top of my head so RTM to be sure
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You're right Whizz...
The drive privides a +15v supply out of terminal 14 to be used to activate its inputs. This is linked back into terminal 19 (control release) to enable the drive.
And termianl 13 is 0V
Chadha, If you've got 0v between termianls 13 and 19 then either...
- The link is faulty
- The Replacement drive is faulty
1) Check the voltage between terminals 13 and 14, it should be +15v DC
2) If not (ie you've got 0v) then disconnect the wire in termiinal 14 then check the voltage between 13 and 14 again - is it now 15v ?
3) If not (ie still 0v) then call KEB and tell them you've got 0v between terms 13 and 14. It looks like a faulty replacement drive.
If you Do get 15v in step(2) then it looks like a fault link between terminals 14 and 19
And if you get 0v in step (2) but 15v in step (3) then it looks like some external fault is dragging the 15v supply down.
Finally, forget looking at the guardmaster, estop relay/pushbutton etc, they are obviously doing your head in! These are all symptoms of the drive fault and all these problems will go away when we get the drive up and running! Keep Smiling
The drive privides a +15v supply out of terminal 14 to be used to activate its inputs. This is linked back into terminal 19 (control release) to enable the drive.
And termianl 13 is 0V
Chadha, If you've got 0v between termianls 13 and 19 then either...
- The link is faulty
- The Replacement drive is faulty
1) Check the voltage between terminals 13 and 14, it should be +15v DC
2) If not (ie you've got 0v) then disconnect the wire in termiinal 14 then check the voltage between 13 and 14 again - is it now 15v ?
3) If not (ie still 0v) then call KEB and tell them you've got 0v between terms 13 and 14. It looks like a faulty replacement drive.
If you Do get 15v in step(2) then it looks like a fault link between terminals 14 and 19
And if you get 0v in step (2) but 15v in step (3) then it looks like some external fault is dragging the 15v supply down.
Finally, forget looking at the guardmaster, estop relay/pushbutton etc, they are obviously doing your head in! These are all symptoms of the drive fault and all these problems will go away when we get the drive up and running! Keep Smiling
Hello all, sorry been really busy being a book hog and reading up on electronics and all about inverter etc... I realised that there is definatly more then meets the eye. lol
I found out that the guardmaster began to somehow change the +15Volts to 0V... Now, i've managed to re-wire it so it doesnt drop the voltage and now i am getting 15 Volts to the system, but due to the terrible weather here in england and the power cuts i have to stop... so hopefully 2mor i will be able to get it started...
I'll keep you all posted on whats happening.
I found out that the guardmaster began to somehow change the +15Volts to 0V... Now, i've managed to re-wire it so it doesnt drop the voltage and now i am getting 15 Volts to the system, but due to the terrible weather here in england and the power cuts i have to stop... so hopefully 2mor i will be able to get it started...
I'll keep you all posted on whats happening.
lol, its alive.. mu hahahahaha... lol
well for anybody who has a mirac and has a problem similar to this, i'll try to put a sort of guide to what i did and how i got it to work...
As Mr Magoo correctly suggested it was all to do with the inverter.
You can use any inverter that is compatiable with the motor, i retured the KEB F4 generation cos it took to long to program correctly and i had enough reading its manual..
I ended up with a ABB inverter, the Serial Number is 635A1217WS.
Rewire the motor cable to the respective U V W, and L1 and N to the same place.
I chose Macro 3 and this took me 10 mins to programs. Thanks to Mr Magoo who kindly sent me the parameter, i was able to check and work out the other paraments that i needed. I got a brake resister even though this isnt entirely necessary.
I will take some photos and put up a pdf of the new wiring diagram... The only disadvantage is that you have to bypass the guardmaster, but, if you do open the door the spindle will automatically slow to a stop and then as the door is closed, it resumes to its desired speed, i've found this to actually be an advantage cos i can clear the swarf away now... but thats dependent...
i'll get the wiring diagram up incase any1 will ever need it in the future.
Again, thanks to all of you that helped and pointed me in the right direction.
well for anybody who has a mirac and has a problem similar to this, i'll try to put a sort of guide to what i did and how i got it to work...
As Mr Magoo correctly suggested it was all to do with the inverter.
You can use any inverter that is compatiable with the motor, i retured the KEB F4 generation cos it took to long to program correctly and i had enough reading its manual..
I ended up with a ABB inverter, the Serial Number is 635A1217WS.
Rewire the motor cable to the respective U V W, and L1 and N to the same place.
I chose Macro 3 and this took me 10 mins to programs. Thanks to Mr Magoo who kindly sent me the parameter, i was able to check and work out the other paraments that i needed. I got a brake resister even though this isnt entirely necessary.
I will take some photos and put up a pdf of the new wiring diagram... The only disadvantage is that you have to bypass the guardmaster, but, if you do open the door the spindle will automatically slow to a stop and then as the door is closed, it resumes to its desired speed, i've found this to actually be an advantage cos i can clear the swarf away now... but thats dependent...
i'll get the wiring diagram up incase any1 will ever need it in the future.
Again, thanks to all of you that helped and pointed me in the right direction.