Cyclone doesn`t power up. SOLVED

stevenl · Post by **stevenl** » Tue 06 Jan , 2015 18:06 pm

"Long story short i accidentally plugged the two big power connectors to the lathe the wrong way in, making some components receive 400V instead of 200V and 200V instead of 110V. These components was the cabinet fan, the cabinet light, the Fanuc power unit and the small Denford 24V DC power supply.

Bought a new Fanuc power unit and changed the burned voltage regulator(LS7824) on the DC power supply and now it`s working!"

Hey,

i have a Denford Cyclone with Fanuc OT-B controls. I cant seem to find any tags on the machine telling me the production year and so on. But it is the model with the big black transformer box and 380V input.

The problem is that i don`t have 380V at my house, so i went to a place were i tought there was 230 3phase available. And i got my self a 230v to 400v 7.5 KVA transformer box to get it up to 380V for the machine. But the problem is that some retards have used a blue 230V connector were there was 380V in the cable. So i powered the 230 to 380v transformer with 380v and then that one powered the denford transformer box with the double of that! lets say 800V!

So when i switched on the denford transformer box the cabinet fan began smoking and i think a small transformer for the cabinet lights blow up.

Now i have connected the 380v direct into the transformer box as it supposed, but the cyclone wont turn on. Ive checked absolutely all electronics, nothing seem to be burned or broken. So what do you people think could have taken a hit her? which components should i check?

I dont think there have been high voltage to the system electronics because the denford transformer box was never on while the high voltage was on. And it was turned off pretty fast.

Because now when i supply with the correct 380v and press down the breaker in the big black box the transformers starts making sound, it did not do that the first time with high voltage. But still no power to the cyclone. I believe there is some problems with some controlling power because the breakers are not activated when pushing the green "start" button on the cyclone.

Steven

Martin · Post by **Martin** » Tue 06 Jan , 2015 20:20 pm

The serial plate should be on the side of the electrical cabinet.

I would start by checking the control voltage. (110 volts)

stevenl · Post by **stevenl** » Tue 06 Jan , 2015 20:36 pm

Alright! Thanks, ive checked the 24volt supply as i thought that was the control voltage. So does the 110volt control the main relays and breakers? Do these get activated when you turn on the main switch on the transformer or when you press the green button on the front panel?

The plate doesnt exist on my machine then :/ is it glued on? Because i cant see any signs of anything been there either.

Sorry about my english btw, im from norway

Steven

Martin · Post by **Martin** » Wed 07 Jan , 2015 2:35 am

Without looking at the electrical drawings the control & 24volt DC power supply are run from the 110volt control supply. Check fuse F1 next to the 10amp control circuit breaker in the transformer box.

stevenl · Post by **stevenl** » Thu 08 Jan , 2015 14:18 pm

The fuse f1 is ok. Been measuring around now and i get 62v out of the 24v supply? The 2 blue wires with code 61 and 68 gives 62volts. The 2 black ones before the rectifier gives 24volts and the main input gives 110volts.

Is my rectifier bad? Could this cause some problems with the crontrol not turning on?

Edit: my bad, was measuring on ac. Got 29volts when switching to dc. It wiggles up and down when i move he purple condensator. it seems like the purple condensator on the 24volt board is loose in one of the solderings! Il solder that up and see what happens.

Steven

Martin · Post by **Martin** » Thu 08 Jan , 2015 23:27 pm

It should be 24 volts DC. Looks like you are on AC with the meter.

stevenl · Post by **stevenl** » Fri 09 Jan , 2015 8:12 am

Okey, no difference when soldering the condensator.

But i found out that there is no earth connected to the 380v cable, only the 3 phases. Can this have anything to do with my problems?

Martin · Post by **Martin** » Fri 09 Jan , 2015 8:37 am

Yes it does need a ground to work

stevenl · Post by **stevenl** » Fri 09 Jan , 2015 13:09 pm

Ok, ground is fixed. But still no sign for life. All lines have power in the transformator without the big 3 phase transformer as it needs the circuit breaker to kick in first. It seems like the electronics doesnt get power to turn on the system, but the 110volts is going in to the electronics cabinet. What does the power module on the left side on the door do? And what should light up just by switching on the transformator?

Maybe something else have burned? But shouldnt i able to see it then on some components?

Thank you very much for all the help this far!

Steven

stevenl · Post by **stevenl** » Fri 09 Jan , 2015 13:35 pm

Is there any electrical drawings for my model with OT-B control?

stevenl · Post by **stevenl** » Sat 10 Jan , 2015 19:16 pm

Okey solved one problem now! The two big connectors was plugged in wrong! They was suppose to be the other way around. Strange that the design let me do that. But anyways. Now there is power down to the electronics, but there is a red diode blinking after i press the green button for "control on". And the screen is not turning on. Anybody know what this red light means? I think it is on the input module.

Steven

Martin · Post by **Martin** » Sat 10 Jan , 2015 19:48 pm

How about the 24 volts DC?

stevenl · Post by **stevenl** » Sun 11 Jan , 2015 15:19 pm

The 24v dc from the transformer is ok.

But ive been measuring voltages in the power unit on the test points. Here are the results.
5v : 8.4v dc
24v : 45.2v dc
15v : 28.5v dc

Pretty high arent they?

The status now is that there is a small relay kicking in when i push the control on button. But the screen doesnt come on. But there is a flash in the screen when i press the control off button, so i believe the screen is working then.
There is also light in the diodes on the input/output card. ( see picture).
And there is a small green diode that starts blinking when control is on, on the backside of the controlpanel and display(see picture).

But there is no light in the leds on the fanuc control card, should there be? (See picture)

stevenl · Post by **stevenl** » Sun 11 Jan , 2015 15:33 pm

Hmm now i found more test pins on the control card. There seems to be a faulty power supply on the 24v system, or is it a short somewhere? Maybe a limitswitch or something?

Martin · Post by **Martin** » Sun 11 Jan , 2015 21:13 pm

I will have a look for a set of electrical drawings on Monday

stevenl · Post by **stevenl** » Mon 12 Jan , 2015 7:51 am

Great!

But when i look at the pictures again i see that the 24volt pins have a D and E back of them. Does this mean DC and Earth? Because i have not tried to measure anything between the two pins, only to 0V.

Martin · Post by **Martin** » Mon 12 Jan , 2015 13:32 pm

Attached electrical drawings

stevenl · Post by **stevenl** » Sat 17 Jan , 2015 5:01 am

Thank you very much for the electric drawings!

But im starting to believe that my Fanuc power unit is the problem. Im at work right now so cant do any more checks before wednesday.

Any components i should be extra avare of in these units? Ive read that the varistors can get broken if a high voltage is supplied. So i will check them first.

stevenl · Post by **stevenl** » Fri 01 May , 2015 8:19 am

Alright, now I have got my self a new power supply module. Will be shipped out soon. I let you know as soon as i get it swapped if that was the problem here, i really hope so! Looking forward to get this lathe up and running and make som chips

Steven

stevenl · Post by **stevenl** » Mon 11 May , 2015 21:23 pm

After changing the power unit module A16B-1211-0850 with a new one the machine is now starting up

That's good news! But now i cant do anything because i get "NOT READY" and some numbers on the start-up screen that says "0615 - 07".

I can go through the menu for parameters and diagnostics. All parameters are in as they should. But after some research i have found that diagnostic NO 0021, bit 4 should be 1 when E-stop is healthy, mine is constantly 0. So i think there is something wrong with the estop control and maybe those numbers can guide mw in the right direction to where to check things.

Any tips/help is appreciated! Thanks!

Denford Software & Machines

Denford Software & Machines

Cyclone doesn`t power up. SOLVED

Cyclone doesn`t power up. SOLVED

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Re: Cyclone doesn`t power up

Re: Cyclone doesn`t power up

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Re: Cyclone doesn`t power up

Re: Cyclone doesn`t power up

Re: Cyclone doesn`t power up

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Re: Cyclone doesn`t power up

Re: Cyclone doesn`t power up

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