Just ran across this so might help you in the right direction https://www.summet.com/blog/2016/03/26/ ... -complete/ .

It's brushed so it'll be a universal motor and you can get speed controllers for them on the likes of ebay. Regarding the wires the brown should be live, the blue neutral, and you know the earths so you could wire a plug onto it and test with mains voltage which will give you full speed if it works.

You may find that one or more of the main power drive ICs have been damaged. If you search for L298 you'll get a number of likely useful posts on this BBS.

It may be worthwhile having the RCD checked to ensure it's functioning correctly as I had my house one trip whenever I turned on my TIG welder which hadn't happened before so had the welder tested and it was fine. I called in an electrician I know and he checked the RCD and it was bad so replaced it...

SRR is normally Spindle Reverse Relay so it looks like you already have one wired in just need to wire it to your new controller.

That should do it. I looked up a Bijur TM-1 oiler and that gave a 3W power consumption and an estimate of the running current worked out it needed minimum 11VA transformer.

What oiler pump does your Triac use make and model, that would be useful to know to find the electrical load. Mine has a Bijur oiler but I can't access it easily at the moment as it's a work in progress.

You'll find the facility to add attachments at the bottom of the page where you post a reply.

Depending on the board these may help as I posted them earlier on another thread Nextmove ST http://www.abbmotion.com/support/supportme/Documents/Manuals/MN1929_01-10.pdf and the other Baldor board used Smartstep https://www.baldor.com/Shared/manuals/1251-396.pdf . Both give the current rating for t...

Worth checking first for any deposits around the battery on the Nextmove board as they are prone to leak electrolyte after many years which may effect the comms. If there are deposits they need to be removed with distilled or deionised water and dried. In many of the Denford installations the batter...

As no one else has responded yet I thought I would ask if this is a system you have had running in the past and has now stopped working or if you're trying to get it working for the first time. This thread http://www.denfordata.com/bb/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=3167 mentions 'L' likely being a issue with ...

If you have access to something that'll read the EPROM then it could be a good precaution to do so and save it as a back-up as they don't last forever. IIRC when I've looked at some of the data sheets for the EPROMs I was using 10 years was a typical minimum life quoted, they normally go on far long...

Is there a battery below the LED, it looks like there might be but the image doesn't have enough detail to be sure. Worth checking for any appearance of deposits on the PCB around the battery as they often leak electrolyte after a time and it typically effects the comms signals. Can you find one of ...

One thing that can cause comms issues with some software, I don't know if it effects Denford software, is the latency setting in the FTDI driver, it's likely in the advanced settings dialog on the driver page you posted earlier. I think in order to use the USB efficiently it waits in case more chara...

As no one else has replied yet do you have any information from Denford about how to set-up the bearings when replaced and what level of heating is to be expected. From looking at the Novamill assembly drawings the heating could be the result of doing the lock nut up too tight which holds the pulley...

This should give you an idea of how the original control card handles things http://www.denfordata.com/bb/viewtopic. ... 003#p11296 .

I don't know what BOB you're using but the way you're suggesting connecting out1 and out2 on the BOB suggests to me that you don't fully understand the interfacing of the BOB to the Denford hardware. Luckily there's a lot of information already here on the Denford BB covering the subject, a search f...

Typical to many Denford products the SGR and other relays are tied to 24V. They're energised by pulling the other end of the relay coil to ground often with something like a ULN2803 driver chip on the main control board. My Triac is like that, I don't know if it has a timer as it's a conversion work...

IIRC P1 is the 0-10V 0V reference, P2 the 0-10V speed signal input, P3 the 10V reference so you can connect a suitable pot across P1 and P3 and take the wiper signal to P2 if required. The main thing to know is that 0-10V signals are referenced to the motor supply voltage and should not be connected...

Brian, That's a great result, hopefully you get a decent discount for buying most of the UK stock. I had originally thought of suggesting 3D printing the inserts in Igus filament as you can buy it from their site but I don't know if you have a 3D printer. It's something I've had in mind to try for a...